Their full address is: The Barn Bury Mill Farm Bury Gate Bury Pulborough West Sussex RH20 1NM Tel: 01798 831955

They had a pile of them there including the later Wolf versions with disk brakes, I chose one that I thought was in good nick and drove it home with a trailer board as it was still wired with 24V lights and a military connector. I had originally forgotten the NATO pintle required to tow it and had to drive all the way home to collect it (doh!).

It has a brand new Bradley overrun damper which is connected to the drum brakes via a collection of rods, levers and grease, (although most of the grease is now in my hair and on my clothes) and the chassis is in excellent condition, so everything else can be fixed as and when needed. There are no holes in the tub and apart from some rust it is in good condition.

Background Information

Sankey is a generic name for this style of trailer manufactured by: Reynolds Boughton, Viking Trailers, Universal Engineering, Roots and Pressed Steel Company & Sankey.

The pdf technical handbook / manual can be downloaded here. Or please view our manuals page for a complete collection of manuals, Rave CD’s and Microcat.

The early examples were made in 1/2 and 3/4 Ton spec and were identical in most respects apart from the springs and shock absorbers were of a higher spec on the 3/4 Ton. Constructed of a welded steel body, early models of Sankeys were designed to be water tight and capable of floating, later versions have a tailgate so are not watertight. All trailers have internal load lashing rings, two front and two rear, and exterior lashing hooks for roping and covers. The later bodies were fitted with a small round flap in the tailgate which pivots open to allow a bowser to be placed in the trailer body with the tap and T bar fitting through the flap.

Standard Features

Dropdown tailgate (widetrack)
Military lighting
Tow ring
Drum brakes
Handbrake
Adjustable front jockey wheel
2 rear levelling legs
6.50×16 wheels and Avon tyres
Wooden duckboard
Suspension consists of 2 semi-elliptic springs with shock absorber dampers
Capacity of 3/4 ton (widetrack)

Dimensions

Length 2.92m
Width 1.425m
Height 0.94m
Track 1.2m
Weight, laden 1.12 tonne
Internal distance between wheelboxes: 1.05m

Lamp Lens Part Numbers

Brake: FV760732
Fog: FV939003
Indicator: FV760733
Front: FV817224

Converting from 24v to 12v

To convert a Sankey from 24v to 12v all you need to do is swap over the bulbs and change the plug so it fits into a civilian socket. The 24v bulbs are as follows:

Indicator/Fog/Running lights: 24v 21w

Stop/Tail lights: 24v 21/5w

Replace these with the 12v equivalent and job done.

Next job is to remove the 12 pin military plug and swap for a 7 pin12N civvy plug which plugs into the ES01 socket. The wires are as follows:

Military Spec wiring

Military to Civilian Wiring 12N

Sankey 3/4 Ton Widetrack Chassis Dimensions

Here is a diagram I did for someone on Lr4x4.com. It shows the chassis dimensions of a Sankey Widetrack 3/4 Ton Trailer. All measurements are in inches.

Further images

Diagram depicting the Sankey Trailer Brake System	Sankey widetrack trailer rear showing lights
Sankey Widetrack Mh35 Overrun Damper (made by Bradley) and Handbrake	Sankey Front Left Quarter
Close up of the Bradley damper Type MH35 Part Number: FV2124172	Close up of the Number plate light
Wide track follows the same wheel track as the One Ten	Close up showing how the number plate was mounted.
Dixon Bate Adjustable Plate	NATO Pintle

There seem to be at least two versions, one for the earlier vehicles which inludes mine and then for later versions up to current models.

Mine look like this:

Land Rover One Ten Dash Warning Lights

And later versions have the following layout:

On both types, not all lof the windows  are used and depending on the spec of yours, some lights may also not be used.

The  Defender 90 110 130 Owners Manual (link to pdf download of the full 195 page Owners Manual) shows the following descriptions (I have taken 3 pages and created images):

Wiring is now complete. Used 35mm² welding cable run through 16mm convoluted tubing with bulkhead fittings to protect the wiring. Ran it from the battery box, along the chassis up to the wing behind the nearside headlight. Here it went into a heavy duty cutoff, then to the solenoids and finally on to the winch. A hole for the remote control socket was drilled through the wing above the light panel. Although mine was a four pin, only three were used. One +12v feed and then one to each solenoid.

As I had drive when in difflock and the front prop was spinning away, advice from the LR4x4 forum pointed towards the front half shaft and I removed the front prop by the side of the road so that I could get home. Now in the process of stripping the hub, removing the other side and removing the diff so that I can get the broken bits out of the diff.

More pictures and text to come once I get this thing sorted out. Kinda coverd in grease and oil just now

Have been advised to either try and drill out the bit left or just replace the whole UJ. Might go for option 2 as at least it gives me practice replacing them and they are only about £6. part No: RTC3458

Update:

Removed the broken bit using an Easyout. Very easy to do because of all the grease. Part number is: TYL100030. Remember that as well as the 3 points on each propshaft, the Track Rod and drag link ends often have grease nipples.

Feed from the ignition white cable and the other terminal goes to earth. With ignition on it shows the state of the battery and with the engine running (alternator providing power) it shows the charge.

When I got home I decided to have a look at where things were going wrong and noticed that the dashboard light didn’t come on and difflock wasn’t engaging.

The first step was to remove the gearlever rubber surround. This was cable tied on so I had to cut it before lifting it up and over the levers. Next the transmission tunnel cover comes off. This is just screwed/bolted to the floor so an easy job.

Now I could see what was happening and thankfully it was obvious to see where it had gone wrong. The lever  pushes a pivoting rod back and forwards and the pin that held these two items together was completely missing.

A suitable nut and bold was found, tab of threadlock to keep it together and I had difflock working again.

Another common fault with difflock is that the lever, while moving, doesn’t have enough throw to engage lock. This is where the adjustable pivot comes into play and by adjusting it you can increase or decrease the amount of travel. It has a screw thread and bolt on the casing which you can use to adjust.

The other common fault is that difflock works but the dash light doesn’t light up. Apart from a blown bulb, the switch can be at fault and often needs adjusting in or out so that it makes contact.